Ramen Day (Rāmen no Hi)

What is Ramen Day?

Every year on July 11th, Japan celebrates "Ramen Day." It was established by the Japan Ramen Association and registered with the Japan Anniversary Association in 2017. The number 7 is likened to a Chinese soup spoon and 11 to a pair of chopsticks, and the date also marks the birthday (July 11, 1628, in the modern calendar) of Tokugawa Mitsukuni, lord of the Mito domain (famous as "Mito Kōmon"), who is said to have been the first person in Japan to eat ramen. The day aims to promote the ramen industry and support Japan's unique ramen culture.

"Mito Kōmon" and the History of Ramen

The history of ramen in Japan has several milestones.

• Tokugawa Mitsukuni and Chinese noodles: It is thought that Mitsukuni may have learned to make Chinese noodles from Zhu Shunshui, a Confucian scholar who fled Ming China and was invited to the Mito domain. A record shows that in 1697, Chinese noodles were served to monks and retainers visiting Seizansō, Mitsukuni's retirement residence. The noodles are said to have included lotus-root starch mixed into the wheat flour, and a recreated "Mito-han Ramen" is based on this.
• An even older record: More recently, some have proposed that ramen in Japan began with "keitaimen," noodles mentioned in 1485 in "Inryōken Nichiroku," a diary kept at Shōkoku-ji temple in Kyoto during the Muromachi period.
• Rairaiken in Asakusa and mass popularity: In 1910 (Meiji 43), "Rairaiken" opened in Asakusa, Tokyo, and became hugely popular for its soy-sauce "shina soba." It is regarded as the pioneer of Tokyo ramen, and from there ramen spread as an everyday food.

The Secret of Ramen's Flavor: The "Umami Synergy Effect"

Ramen broth makes use of combinations that make umami taste stronger.

• Glutamic acid x Inosinic acid: When "glutamic acid" from kombu and vegetables is combined with "inosinic acid" from animal ingredients such as dried sardines, chicken bones, or pork bones, umami tastes stronger than either alone — the "umami synergy effect." Broths made from several ingredients take advantage of this.
• Double soup: Making an animal-based broth and a seafood-based broth separately and then combining them, known as "double soup," is another way of blending different kinds of umami.

Interesting Facts About Ramen

• The role of "kansui": Ramen noodles get their springy texture and yellow color from alkaline "kansui." Flavonoid pigments in wheat flour turn yellow when they react with the alkali, giving ramen noodles a texture and flavor distinct from udon or soba.
• Slurping spreads the aroma: Slurping noodles is said to carry the broth's aroma from the mouth up into the nose along with air, making it easier to sense.
• Regional ramen: Distinctive local styles have developed across Japan, such as Sapporo's miso, Hakata's pork bone, and Kitakata's soy sauce ramen. Every year on Ramen Day, the Japan Ramen Association publishes a list of Japan's regional ramen styles.
• Where "Ie-kei" comes from: The style traces back to "Yoshimuraya," founded in Yokohama in 1974. People who trained there opened their own shops with names ending in "-ya" (家, "house"), so the style is called "Ie-kei" (house style). It is known for pork-bone soy-sauce broth and thick noodles.
• "RAMEN" around the world: Japanese-style ramen shops have become popular abroad, in cities such as New York, Paris, and London.

Tips for Enjoying Ramen Day

• Take your time with your favorite bowl and try to guess what ingredients went into the broth.
• Try a regional ramen you have been curious about, or look into why that flavor developed in that area.
• Visit a shop you have never been to, or try a flavor you don't usually order.
• Use the story of Mito Kōmon and ramen as a conversation starter with coworkers or family.

The History of Japanese Noodle Culture in a Single Bowl

July 11th is a day to enjoy ramen, which has become one of Japan's national dishes. From the Edo-period story of Mito Kōmon to Meiji-era Asakusa and today's regional styles across Japan, ramen has spread while changing shape with the times. Today, sit down with a steaming bowl and think about the ideas and history behind its flavor.