Tsukudani Day (Tsukudani no Hi)

What Is Tsukudani Day?

June 29 is "Tsukudani Day" each year. It commemorates the founding of Sumiyoshi Shrine in Tsukuda, Chuo Ward, Tokyo — regarded as the birthplace of tsukudani, small fish, shellfish, seaweed, and other foods simmered in soy sauce and sugar — on the 29th day of the sixth month of Shōhō 3 (1646) in the old lunar calendar. The day was established in 2003 by the National Federation of Cooked Food Industry Cooperatives, and the date also carries a wordplay in which "29" can be read "tsu-ku," as in Tsukuda. It was certified and registered by the Japan Anniversary Association in 2004. It is a day to rediscover tsukudani, a traditional food that dates back to the Edo period, and to pass on its flavors and the wisdom of preserved foods.

The Legend Behind Tsukudani

The origins of tsukudani are linked in tradition to Tokugawa Ieyasu and the fishermen of Tsukuda Village in Settsu Province.

• Ieyasu and the fishermen of Tsukuda: According to tradition, in 1582, after the Honnōji Incident, Mori Magoemon, the village head of Tsukuda (present-day Nishiyodogawa Ward, Osaka), and local fishermen offered simmered small fish as provisions to Ieyasu as he fled from Sakai. The food is said to have kept well and been nourishing on the journey.
• Moving to Edo: Through this connection, the fishermen later moved to Edo, built up an island at the mouth of the Sumida River, and named it "Tsukudajima" after their home village.
• Becoming a specialty of Edo: The simmered small fish the fishermen made came to be called "tsukudani." As an inexpensive food that kept well, it is said to have spread nationwide as a specialty of Edo, carried home by samurai traveling under the sankin-kōtai system.

Sumiyoshi Shrine in Tsukuda

Sumiyoshi Shrine in Tsukuda is said to have begun when the fishermen enshrined a spirit divided from Tamino Shrine in their home village, which is dedicated to the Sumiyoshi deities, and it has long been worshipped as a guardian of the sea. At its main festival, held once every three years, an octagonal portable shrine is carried out and taken around the parish by boat in a "funatogyo" procession. In the past, the portable shrine was carried right into the Sumida River, but this ended after 1962; the tradition was revived as a boat procession in 1990.

Fun Facts About Tsukudani

• Why it keeps well: Tsukudani is simmered in soy sauce and sugar until the liquid is nearly gone, which makes it harder for microbes to grow and helps it keep.
• A classic rice companion: There are many kinds depending on ingredients and region, including small fish, clams, kelp, nori, and sand lance (kugini).
• Small fish, bones and all: Tsukudani made from small fish such as chirimen (baby sardines) or wakasagi (pond smelt) is eaten bones and all, making it an easy way to get calcium.
• Watch the salt: Its strong flavor means a little goes a long way with rice. If you are concerned about salt, keep portions modest.

Tips for Enjoying Tsukudani Day

• Use your favorite tsukudani as an onigiri filling.
• Look into the history of Tsukudajima and Sumiyoshi Shrine. A stroll there also takes you past long-established tsukudani shops.
• Chop tsukudani and use it to season fried rice or dressed vegetables.
• Compare tsukudani from different regions, such as clam, kelp, or sand lance.

Edo-Era Wisdom Packed into a Small Dish

June 29 is a day to appreciate the wisdom of preserved foods handed down since the Edo period, and the people who have kept it alive. Born from the stories of the fishermen of Tsukudajima, tsukudani still supports our meals today. Why not enjoy some tsukudani with your rice today?