Pike Conger Day (Hamo no Hi)

What Is Pike Conger Day?

August 3 is "Pike Conger Day" (Hamo no Hi). It was established by the Tokushima Prefectural Federation of Fisheries Cooperative Associations, representing Tokushima Prefecture, one of Japan's leading hamo-producing areas, to promote Tokushima's live-hamo cuisine as a brand nationwide. The date comes from "hami," another name for hamo in the Kansai region: 8 and 3 can be read as "ha (8) mi (3)." Hamo (pike conger) is an essential summer delicacy around the time of Kyoto's Gion Festival and Osaka's Tenjin Festival.

Hamo and Summer in Kyoto and Osaka

Hamo is a signature summer ingredient in the Kansai region, especially Kyoto and Osaka.

• A fish that could travel alive: Hamo is famously hardy and can survive a long time out of water. Before refrigeration, it was one of the few fish that could be carried alive to Kyoto, far from the sea — said to be one reason hamo cuisine flourished there. The Gion Festival is sometimes even called the "Hamo Festival."
• The art of "honegiri" (bone-cutting): Hamo has a great many small bones. By making about 24 fine cuts per sun (about 3 cm) while leaving the skin intact, chefs make the bones unnoticeable. It's a true showcase of culinary skill.

Tokushima and Hamo

Tokushima Prefecture ranks among Japan's top hamo producers, and much of its catch is said to have traditionally been shipped to markets in Kyoto and Osaka. Hamo Day reflects the wish to make Tokushima better known as a producing region, along with its dishes of fresh, lively hamo.

Interesting Facts About Hamo

• The origin of the name: One theory says that because hamo has sharp teeth and strong jaws and bites at anything, "hamu" (to bite/eat) or "hami" changed over time into "hamo."
• Blanched hamo with plum paste: When bone-cut hamo is briefly dipped in hot water, the flesh opens like a white flower. Eating it with pickled plum paste ("otoshi" or "yubiki") is a classic summer dish.
• A nocturnal fish: During the day, hamo hide in sand or mud on the seabed; at night they hunt small fish, shrimp, and crabs.
• Two seasons: Hamo is said to be at its best from early summer through summer. Fattier hamo in autumn is called "nagori no hamo" (lingering hamo) and is enjoyed as a farewell to the season.
• Many ways to enjoy it: Besides blanching, it's enjoyed as tempura, teriyaki, clear soup, and in autumn hot pots such as hamo-shabu.

Tips for Enjoying Hamo Day

• Try seasonal hamo dishes such as blanched hamo or tempura.
• Watch a video of honegiri and pay attention to the chef's knife work.
• Learn about hamo-producing regions such as Tokushima.
• Look into the history of summer festivals associated with hamo, such as the Gion and Tenjin festivals.

A Summer Flavor Born of Craftsmanship

August 3 is a day to enjoy hamo, a beloved summer flavor of the Kansai region. The bone-cutting technique, refined to make a bony fish delicious, shows real ingenuity in making the most of an ingredient. Today, take your time enjoying the craftsmanship and the seasonal taste as you admire hamo's flesh blossoming white.